Trango Towers

The Trango Towers are a set of tall, erect rocks. They are located in the Baltoro region of the Karakoram Range, in Pakistan’s northern part. The highest point in the group is the top of Great Trango Tower reaching 6,286 meters above sea level.

The Great Trango Tower was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek. They took a route starting from the west side.


Quick Facts: –

  • The Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dahli climbed the east face of Great Trango in 1984 but both died on the descent.
  • The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was made by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf in 1992.
  • They took a route called the Grand Voyage, a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians.
  • The Great Trango Tower has three routes straight up the East/North-East face and a couple of alpine routes on the North-West and West sides of the peak.
  • The first of the Trango Towers to be successfully climbed was the Nameless Tower. It was climbed in 1976 by Englishman Joe Brown.
  • These cliffs are made of tall granite rock spokes, and they were first opened for public climbing in 1975.
  • The east face of the Great Trango Tower features the world’s greatest nearly vertical drop.
  • Every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the Trango Towers.
  • The Gilgit city is one of the two major hubs for all mountaineering expeditions.